*** EDITOITU TANAAN ***
Terveiset terrakotta-armeija kaupungista Xi'anista! Kuiva ja tomuinen Peking vaihtui edellispaivana kosteaksi ja pilviseksi Xi'aniksi. Ehka kyseessa on vain paivan sadekuuro mutta me haluamme elaa uskossa etta elamme keskella tropiikkia, jossa monsuunituulet hellasti puhaltelevat. Maaseutunakymatkin ovat huomattavasti Pohjois-Kiinaa vehreammat. Paljon peltoja, pengerryksia ja kaiken maailman viljelmia. Hyonteisiakin on enemman kuin pohjoisessa: jalkoihin on ilmestynyt kutiavia puremia. (Uutta tieioa talta paivalta: Sumuisuus ei olekaan monsuunia vaan savusumua eli smogia. Olemme yhdessa Kiinan saastuneimmista kaupungeista.) Matkamme taittui talla kertaa mukavassa yojunassa (opimme edellisesta). Yllatykseksi hard-sleeper paikat eivat olleet ollenkaan kovia. Seura oli taas hyvin miehinen, naiset eivat taalla ilmeisesti paljoa matkusta, ainakaan valilla Peking - Xi'an.
Majoittaidumme mukavassa hostellissa nimelta Xi'an Shuyuan Youth Hostel. Huoneemme on pieni kellarinhajuinen loukko (hinta 20 Y, sic!) mutta oikein kaypa ja henkilokunta ja muu hostelliymparisto on kiva. Punaisia kiinalaisia lyhtyja ja lammin kiinalainen tunnelma.
Xi'an on aika mukava kaupunki, Kiinan vanha paakaupunki ja yha muurien ymparoima. Taalla on erikoisuutena kiinalainen muslimivaesto, ja heidan oma korttelinsa jossa on moskeija ja ruokakojuja. Xi'anilainen ruokaerikoisuus on tummat nuudelit, joita maistettiin eilen, hyvia olivat. Hao, hao. Xi'anin erikoisuus on myos sen maanalainen terrakotta-armeija. Se ei ollut niin "hao, hao", vaan pikemminkin "hohhoijaa". Maksoimme 90 Y (EI opiskelija-alennusta) kamaisesta messuhallista, jossa sotilaat jokottivat rivissa paa kainalossa. Kyynel meinasi tulla silmaan paitsi nostalgisuudesta myos pettymyksesta: Paikka muistutti erehdyttavasti enemman Lahden suurhallia kuin muinaista keisarin hautakammiota. Innokkaat turistit kuvauttivat itseaan rautakaidetta vasten. Lahemmaksi kuin 20 metrin paahan ei terrakottia paassyt ellei pulittanut 150 Yuania lisaa! Kyltissa luki: "It's much more worth than what you paid. 150Y". Tuon summan maksamalla paasi kaksi metria lahemmaksi kuvauttamaan itsensa rautakaidetta vasten ihan ilman turisteja... ei ollut meidan juttu.
Eilisiltapaiva Xi'anissa meni ihanasti kun tutustuimme paikalliseen herttaiseen 13-vuotiaaseen tyttoon ja hanen perheeseensa. Tytto oli opiskellut englantia vasta kolme vuotta, mutta puhui sujuvasti ja kaansi kaikki aitinsa ja meidankin valilla. Kiersimme ympari Xi'ania ja han kertoi meille yhta jos toista kiinalaisesta kulttuurista. Kavimme mm. muslimikaupunginosassa, Bell Tower - aukiolla katselemassa leijojen lennatysta ja paikallisessa tavaratalossa ihastelemassa viimeisinta muotia. 'Hui, miten kallista.'
Tanaan ilma on jalleen pilvinen ja kuuman kostea. Yuanimme alkavat olla kertakaikkisen loppu. Lompakosta pilkistaa enaa vaivaiset 60 remmimpiita (6 euroa). Aamun ensimmainen aktiviteetti on siis loytaa VISA-automaatti. Ajattelimme kuluttaa paivan tutustumalla Xi'aniin ilmaperspektiivista, eli vuokraamme pyorat joilla kierramme kaupunkia muurin paalta. Illalla menemme maistelemaan muslimi-kiinalaista ruokaa. Junaliput seuraavaan kohteeseen on hankittu itse omakatisesti asemalta ja se sujui taas kerran yllattavan helposti. Lahdemme kohti etelaa tiistai-iltapaivana. Seuraava kohde selviaa pian... Pysykaa YHA kanavilla.
P.S. Kaikki Hectorin ystavat: Siperia-aiheinen laulu ON tulossa PIAN.
*** EDITED TODAY ***
Greetings from the Terracotta Warrior city - Xi'an! After the dry and dusty atmosphere of Beijing, we arrived to the humid and cloudy Xi'an the other day. Maybe it is just normal showers but we want to believe that we're living in the middle of tropical monsun breezes. The landscapes in the countryside are much more subtropical than in the Northern China. Lots of all sorts of farms and fields, even more insects, which can be seen from all the bites on our legs. (New information from today! The foggyness is not about the monsun but smog. We're in one of the most polluted cities in China.) This time our journey was much more pleasent as we travelled in a comfortable night train (we learned from the misstake of taking a bus last time). To our surprise the hard sleeper seats were not hard at all. The company was again mainly men, women don't supposedly travel much here, at least not between Beijing and Xi'an.
We're staying in a very nice hostel called Xi'an Shuyuan Youth Hostel. Our room is a tiny little basement smelling hole (price 20Y, sic!) but does its job very well and the staff of the hostel is very friendly and the atmosphere lovely. Red paper lights and a warm chinese atmosphere all in all.
Xi'an is guite a nice city, the old capital of China and still surrounded by city walls. One of Xi'an's specialities is a chinese muslim minority and its own quarter with a mosque and food stands. A food speciality of Xi'an are the dark noodles, which we tried yesterday. They were good. "Hao, hao". Also a speciality of Xi'an are the Terracotta Warriors which were not so "hao" but more of "yaaaaaawn". We paid 90Y (No student discounts) for a crumpy exhibition-type of hall where the warriors were standing in lines, most of them missing a part or two of their bodies. We were moved by not only for the nostalgy but also because of great disappointment: The place reminded us more of the Lahti fair hall than of an ancient tomb of a great Chinese emperor. Excited tourists were leaning against the iron fences for photographs. You couldn't get nearer than 20 meters away from the terracottas if you didn't pay 150Y more! A sign said: "It's much more worth than what you paid. 150Y". Paying that amount you could get 2 meters closer and get yourself photographed without tourists, wow! ... that wasn't our cup of tea.
Yesterday afternoon was lovely. We got to know a cute Chinese 13-year-old girl and her family. The girl had studied English for only 3 years but spoke fluently and translated everything even between her mom and us. We were going around Xi'an on foot and she told us a lot about the Chinese culture. We went to the Muslim Quarter together as well as to watch the flying of kites at the Bell Tower Square. We also went to the Department Store to wonder the latest of the latest. "Oooooh, how expensive."
Today the weather is again cloudy, hot and humid. Our Yuans are almost totally gone. There are now only 60 Maos heads sticking out from our wallets (that's 6 euros). The first acticity of this morning is to find a VISA ATM. We are thinking of spending the day watching Xi'an from the birds perspektive, that is, we're renting bikes and cycling around on top of the city walls. In the evening we go try Muslim-Chinese food. We've aquired our train tickets from the train station all by ourselves (oooh, how proud we are). It is surprisingly easy over here. Tuesday afternoon we're heading towards the south. We'll let you know the destination later on... Hang on there.
P.S. All the fans of Hector: The Siberia related song IS coming SOON.